Ingredients Jump to Instructions ↓

  1. 6 tablespoons (120 gr) honey

  2. 4 ounces (110 gr) Roquefort

  3. 1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

  4. 1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

  5. 4 large egg yolks a few turns freshly-ground black pepper

  6. 1. In a small saucepan warm the honey, then set aside.

  7. 2. Crumble the Roquefort into a large bowl. Set a mesh strainer over the top.

  8. 3. In a medium saucepan, warm the milk.

  9. 4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg yolks, whisking constantly.

  10. 5. Scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.

  11. 6. Over medium heat, stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon.

  12. 7. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cheese. Stir until most of the cheese is melted (some small bits are fine, and rather nice in the finished ice cream.) Stir in the cream and the honey, and add a few turns of black pepper.

  13. 8. Chill custard thoroughly, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Cocoa Nib and Spiced Lamb Sausage Pizza Enough for two 9-inch pizzas, or 1 rectangular baking sheet pizza (approximately 11 by 17) You can use this sausage to top any recipe for your favorite pizza dough if you'd like.

  14. 1 recipe for Chocolate Pizza Dough , rolled out onto baking sheets

  15. 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

  16. 2 tablespoons olive oil

  17. 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped pound ground lamb cup peeled, seeded, and chopped canned plum tomatoes

  18. 1 tablespoon tomato paste or harissa cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

  19. 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts large pinch (each) cinnamon, allspice and cloves

  20. 1/8 teaspoons red pepper or chili flakes salt and freshly ground pepper fresh lemon juice cup roasted cocoa nibs

  21. 4 ounces fontina cheese, grated

  22. 2 ounces mozzarella cheese, grated

  23. 1. In a small bowl, mix together

  24. 2 tablespoons olive oil and the minced garlic. Set aside.

  25. 2. Heat remaining olive oil in a skillet and cook the onions until soft and translucent. Add the lamb, tomatoes, tomato paste (or harissa), parsley, pine nuts, spices, and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cook slowly for 10 minutes (uncovered).

  26. 3. Remove from heat and add a squeeze or two of fresh lemon juice and let cool to room temperature.

  27. 4. Once cooled, stir in the cocoa nibs. To make the pizzas : Brush top of pizza dough with garlic-infused olive oil. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the dough then spread the sausage over the cheeses. Finally top with the remaining cheese and bake the pizza in a very hot oven until the cheese is bubbling and deep-golden brown. Chocolate-Almond Buttercrunch Toffee Adapted from The Perfect Scoop

  28. 2 cups (8 ounces, 225 g) toasted almonds or hazelnuts, chopped between ‘fine' and ‘coarse'

  29. 2 tablespoons water

  30. 1/2 cup (1 stick, 115 g) salted or unsalted butter, cut into pieces a nice, big pinch of salt

  31. 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

  32. 1/4 cup (50 g) packed light brown sugar

  33. 1/4 teaspoon baking soda

  34. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

  35. 5 ounces (140 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped, or 1 cup chocolate chips optional: Roasted cocoa nibs and fleur de sel

  36. 1. Lightly oil a baking sheet with an unflavored vegetable oil.

  37. 2. Sprinkle half the nuts into a rectangle about 8 x 10 (20 x 25 cm) on the baking sheet.

  38. 3. In a medium heavy-duty saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, heat the water, butter, salt, and both sugars. Cook, stirring as little as possible, until the thermometer reads

  39. 300 F degrees. Have the vanilla and baking soda handy.

  40. 4. Immediately remove from heat and stir in the baking soda and vanilla.

  41. 5. Quickly pour the mixture over the nuts on the baking sheet. Try to pour the mixture so it forms a relatively even layer. (If necessary, gently but quickly spread with a spatula, but don't overwork it.)

  42. 5. Strew the chocolate pieces over the top and let stand 2 minutes, then spread in an even layer. If using, sprinkle with a small handful of cocoa nibs and a flurry of fleur des selSprinkle the remaining nuts over the chocolate and gently press them in with your hands. Cool completely and break into pieces to serve. Store in an airtight container, for up to ten days.

Instructions Jump to Ingredients ↑

  1. At la pharmacie ! Pharmacies are at the top of my list of favorite places to visit in Paris. There’s everything you can imagine at la pharmacie , and kinda like chain-drugstores in America that stock everything from ear wash to Mint Milanos, les pharmacies are a treasure trove of finds for the body and soul. (Except for Pepperidge Farm Cookies.) But there’s thyme oil. And Rescue Remedy. And baking soda. And Bio-Gauze (the world’s best burn treatment). And pills that will make you thin and give you the most amazing abs like the male model shown in the window no matter how much cheese you eat or wine you drink. Not that I need to, but I practically make up reasons to visit the drugstore. I love going in and seeing everyone lined up seeking advice from the pharmacist. I pick up and look at everything. When I’m poking around suspiciously, they invariably ask if I need help. I always feel funny, especially in a place where people go specifically looking for assistance, saying “No thanks, I’m just looking.” It’s not like Walgreen’s where there’s a bunch of magazines to leaf through or anything. People go in for a purpose, not to be entertained. (Except me.) One of my latest passions is Roget & Gallet I can’t wait to finish one bar so I can try another. Consequently I am perhaps the cleanest person in Paris. All French pharmacists are trained to identify any mushrooms, to determine which are poisonous, and which are okay for la bonne cuisine . If you go to a homeopathic pharmacy, you step up to the counter and stick out your tounge. Then they give you a few bags of pills and cures. And not all of them are administered orally. (Once I had a cough and they tried to give me some, er , medicine that you don’t, um , take directly in your mouth, which would quite a distance to my throat. A that point my French wasn’t very good, and I they were trying to explain it with gesture and motions, and thankfully I go it since I think they were about to give me a demonstration.) And last time I needed a prescription (oral), the pack of pills cost me less than 3 euros. I checked the price in the US, just for fun, and the exact same drug costs close to $200. And people ask me, “Why do you live in France?” Do the math. What is most impressive, though, is that I found out that you can order presure , or rennet, at the pharmacy (Do you think I’m too easily impressed? Or just impressed by the strangest things? Or weird for showering with soap made from lettuce? Or strange for being able to include in one blog entry soap, personal hygene, animal innards, suppositories, my lack of six-pack abs, and ‘shrooms?)* Rennet is an animal enzyme used in cheesemaking and after I’d tasted some of the most sublime cottage cheese of my life at Fromagerie Quattrehomme I wanted to see if I could replicate it at home. Although Americans eat lots of cottage cheese, most of it’s bland and watery. It’s nothing like real cottage cheese. So it seems that yes, the French have beaten us at our own game and made cottage cheese even better than we could. And instead of some fancy-ass name, it’s simply called le cottage cheese . It’s like they’re showing off, not even bothering to change the name to something French. So we can’t eat it and say, “Oh, this is kinda like cottage cheese, but different.” Instead we have to face the fact that yes, it’s cottage cheese, and yes, theirs is better than ours. By a longshot. So to make a long story short, and I don’t want keep you since you probably need to get back to work, I made cottage cheese at home. It’s remarkably simple and tastes great. And you can too! (Although probably not at work, unless you work at a dairy. Which you probably don’t.) I ate most of mine the moment it was ready. You’ll need to get rennet, and I’ve listed a few sources below. Rennet is an animal product and vegetable rennet is available if you’re a veg-head, but I’ve never used it (heck, I’ve never used animal rennet before either) so you may need to scout around the internet or in your community to find it. I would not bother asking at Rite-Aid or Duane Reed…athough it might be worth it just to see their expression. I get a lot of funny expressions around here. You get used to it after a few years. Really. You do. Homemade Cottage Cheese All utensils should be cleaned very well before beginning.

  2. quart (1 liter) whole milk 4 drops liquid rennet teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste 6 tablespoons heavy cream (or half-and-half), or a mixture of heavy cream and buttermilk Heat the milk very slowly in a medium-sized, non-reactive saucepan. Use the lowest heat possible and if you have a flame-tamer for underneath the saucepan, now’s a good excuse to use it. Insert a thermometer into the milk (I use a chocolate thermometer, which is easy to read) and heat until the milk until it reaches 85 degrees F. Turn off heat and stir in rennet. Stir gently for 2 minutes. Cover the saucepan with a clean tea towel draped over the top and put the lid on. Let stand at room temperature for 4 hours. After 4 hours, the mixture will be very softly set and marvelously jiggly. Take a sharp knife and cut the mixture diagonally 5 or 6 times, then do the same in the opposite direction. Sprinkle in the salt then set the pan over extremely low heat and cook, stirring gently, until the curds separate from the whey. It will take just a few minutes. Do not overcook it at this point or your cottage cheese curds will be tough. Line a strainer with cheesecloth or tamine , and set it inside a large bowl. Pour the mixture into the cloth and stir it gently to drain off the copious amount of whey (which can be sent to Susan Fold the ends of the cheesecloth over the cheese and chill the strainer (keeping the bowl underneath) in the refrigerator. Let drain for about 1 hour, stirring once or twice. Spoon the cottage cheese from the cloth into a bowl and stir in the cream, or cream and buttermilk. Taste, and add more salt if necessary. Here are a few sources for liquid animal rennet in the United States, available here , Le snack is often nothing more than a buttery financier or a tender Madeleine . At home, French children at home are often given a split piece of baguette with a bton of chocolate tucked inside to keep them happy until dinner. But my snack of choice is invariably les chouquettes : Cream puffs covered with crunchy nuggets of sugar, then baked until golden-brown. The eggy, pillowy puffs are piled uneventfully behind the counter and sold in crisp little paper sacks, each one holding about 100 grams, or about 10. I found that engaging the counter person in a few words of niceties will often mean that before the ends of the bag are twisted shut, a few more will be tossed in as a petit cadeau for l’americain . Nothing is easier to make than chouquettes and you can bake them tonight with ingredients you likely already have on hand. Unfortunately I don’t know where in your country you can buy the very coarse, crackly sugar that they use in France. But you can substitute any large-grained sugar that you have. And since I like to add chocolate to whatever I can, whenever I can, I press some chocolate chips into a few of the puffs before baking. The ones with chocolate chips, needless to say, are always the first consumed once the puffs are cool enough to handle. Chouquettes About 25 Puffs From The Sweet Life in Paris (Flour Flour varies from country-to-country. French ‘all-purpose’ flour (type 45 and type 55) is closer to American cake flour: it’s milled very finely and has less-protein and gluten (strength). In most cases, you can’t just substitute French all-purpose flour in American recipes like cookies and cakes. I know too many Americans who opened the oven door and found all their carefully rolled-out chocolate chip cookies, melded into one, giant blob. If you’re interested in the precise composition of both flours, you can read about them American vs French flours In spite of the listing, I found that organic type 65 flour is the closest, which you can find in natural food stores like Naturalia . Molasses You can buy mlasse at natural food stores, but it’s sulphured, unrefined, and very strongly-flavored. When using it in recipes, I cut it with some mild-flavored honey. Otherwise it can overwhelm all other flavors in whatever you’re baking. Unless you like that strong, molasses flavor…then go for it. American-brands of mild, unsulphured molasses , as we know it, is available in stores that cater to the expat community. Treacle, available in British stores and markets that carry British foods, is a close substitute, but is similar to blackstrap molasses and quite strong. In a pinch, cut it 50:50 with mild honey, unless you like the strong molasses taste. Yeast You can ask your local boulanger if they’ll sell you some yeast , or it’s available in supermarkets (not in the refrigerated section, like in America) in packets like the one shown above. You can also buy it in small tins in Arab markets, under the SAF brand. Since yeast is a living organism, the yeast in Europe behaves a bit different than American yeast, but I’ve had few problems. You can test yeast by adding a teaspoon to half a cup slightly-warm water; it should start bubbling within a few minutes if it’s still good. You can find a yeast substitution guide at the Red Star yeast website for swapping fresh yeast for dry yeast. Fast-acting yeast in France is available in the baking aisle of some supermarkets called levure rapide or “action express.” My favorite place is the overly-ornate Baratti & Milano , where I like to sip my bicerin surrounded by crystal chandeliers and bronze sculptures. And I always am sure to pick up a few bars of their handcrafted chocolate or gianduja at the gilded-and-mirrored confectionery counter on the way out. Here’s my recipe… Bicerin Two servings It’s important to use a clear glass; you need to be able to see all three layers. To make a bicerin , warm one cup (250 ml) whole milk in a medium-sized saucepan with 3 ounces (90 gr) of chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate. Whisk the mixture until it begins to boil, then let it boil for 1 minute, whisking constantly (the chocolate mixture will foam up a bit.) Afterward, remove it from the heat and set aside. Make a small pot of very strong coffee, or good Italian espresso . Fill the bottom third of a clear, heat-proof glass with the warm chocolate mixture. Pour in some coffee or espresso . (If you want to help it create a definite layer, pour it over the back of a spoon, into the glass.) Top with a nice swirl of sweetened, freshly-whipped cream. Places in Torino/Turin, specializing in local chocolates, gianduiotti , or to find an authentic bicerin : A. Giordano Piazzo Carlo Felice, 69 Tel: 011.547121 Al Bicerin Roasted Cocoa Beans Before They’re Broken Into Nibs Many years ago, I became good friends with Joanne Weir , and after all, it’s Pork Sui Mai About 60 Dumplings Adapted from the repertoire of Bruce Cost This is a lot of pork to chop. Yes, it took me about an hour and it’s quite a good workout, but I didn’t feel the need to go to yoga today…although chopping all that meat may be bad karma , Yummy looking? Well , not yet… 4. Form the meat mixture into balls about 1-inch (3 cm) and place them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Ok, much better… 5. Take a won ton wrapper and place a meatball in the center. Gather the edges up and press the wrapper against the meat making a little cylinder. Repeat with remaining meatballs.

  3. To steam the dumplings, line a bamboo steamer with banana leaves and oil them lightly. Turn on the heat, and once the steamer is hot, steam the dumplings until hot all the way through, which will take about 5 minutes. (You can also use a steamer basket lined with cheesecloth, or lightly oiled.) Notes: If you wish, the meatballs sans the won-ton wrappers can be gently dropped into simmering water and cooked for about 5 minutes, until cooked through, then served with the dipping sauce, or floating in soup. Once steamed and cooled, the dumplings can be frozen in freezer-bags. Dipping sauce 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger (peeled) 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons white Chinese vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon white pepper 3-4 teaspoons roasted sesame oil 1-2 teaspoons chili oil Mix all the ingredients together. Serve with the hot, steamed dumplings. Chocolate-Almond Buttercrunch Toffee Recipe


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