Fried-Catfish Sandwiches with Spicy Mayonnaise

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, 1/2 teaspoon of the black pepper, and the cayenne. Spread the mayonnaise mixture on the rolls.

In a shallow bowl, combine the cornmeal with the salt, thyme, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Dip the fillets into the beaten eggs and then into the seasoned cornmeal. Shake off the excess cornmeal.

In a large nonstick frying pan, heat the oil over moderate heat. Add the cornmeal-coated fish and fry, turning once, until golden on the outside and just done in the center, about 4 minutes per side for 3/4-inch-thick fillets. Drain the fish on paper towels. Sandwich the catfish and greens in the rolls.

Fish Alternatives: Substitute moderately firm, lean fillets for the catfish. Scrod, rockfish, ocean perch, haddock or tilefish are good options.

Wine Recommendation: These laid-back catfish sandwiches will be great with beer or with a straightforward, gulpable red wine. Choose a gamay from California or a Beaujolais from France, which is also made from the gamay grape. Chill the wine slightly for maximum enjoyment.