Sesame-Crusted Tofu with Soba Noodles

To prepare dressing: Combine rice wine (or sake), black bean sauce, soy sauce, sugar and water in a small bowl; stir until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside.

To prepare tofu & soba: Cut tofu into 8 pieces the size of a playing card.

Combine rice wine (or sake), soy sauce and 1 teaspoon sesame oil in a shallow dish just large enough to hold tofu in a single layer. Add tofu; cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, turning once.

Meanwhile, cook noodles in a large pot of boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a large bowl. Remove tofu from marinade and pat dry. Mix any marinade not absorbed by tofu into the reserved dressing and add to the noodles along with watercress, scallions and fermented black beans, if using; toss to combine. Set aside.

Spread sesame seeds on a small plate. Dip tofu into sesame seeds to coat one side. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook tofu, sesame-seed-side down (in batches, if necessary), until golden, about 1 minute. Turn and cook the other side until golden, 1 to 2 minutes more.

Divide the noodles among 4 plates and arrange sesame-crusted tofu on top. Serve immediately.