Fresh Pea Soup

Barely cover peas with lightly salted water in a saucepan, add tarragon and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 2 to 5 minutes. Remove 1 cup of the peas; set aside. Continue cooking the remaining peas until very tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking water.

Puree the peas in a food processor or blender with the reserved cooking water and return the mixture to the saucepan. Add stock and reserved peas. Stir in buttermilk (if using) and pepper. Heat through. Garnish with a few curls of leek (if using) and a sprinkling of nutmeg.