Jamaican-Style Jerk Spareribs

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the spareribs over moderate heat for 25 minutes. Drain and let cool.

In a food processor, combine the chopped scallions with the garlic, chiles, onion, vegetable oil, soy sauce, Chinese five-spice powder, ground allspice, lime juice, salt and pepper and process the mixture to a paste.

Set the spareribs on 2 large rimmed baking sheets and spread the jerk paste all over them. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before grilling.

Light a grill. Grill the spareribs over a medium-hot fire, turning them frequently if they are browning too fast, until lightly charred and crisp, about 25 minutes. Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut in between the ribs, arrange on a platter and serve. Wine Recommendation: A fruity, spicy Zinfandel will stand up to the heat in this dish. Choose one with low levels of oak and alcohol, since fiery spices exaggerate both qualities in a wine. Look for the 1999 Cartlidge & Brown. Or, alternatively, choose a zesty, full-flavored Caribbean beer like Red Stripe to cool down the spices.