Ten Chile Chili

Preheat the oven to 500F.

In a medium skillet, toast the cumin and coriander seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Immediately remove from heat. Grind to a powder in a spice grinder or food processor.

Place the ancho, mulato and pasilla chiles on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven until fragrant and puffed up, about 2 minutes. Remove the stems and seeds and grind the chiles in a spice grinder or food processor until powdered.

In a stockpot, combine the beef, bacon, ham and corn oil. Cook over moderate heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is golden, about 20 minutes.

Add the celery, ground chiles and ancho chile powder. Cook, stirring frequently, until the celery is softened and the chile powder is fragrant, about 10 minutes.

Add the cayenne, bay leaves, pequin chile, jalapeno and serrano peppers, chipotle chiles, ham hock, tomatoes, tequila, stock, rosemary, sage and oregano. Simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 4 hours.