Gari (Tamarind Vegetable Vindaloo)

The searing heat and intensely spiced flavors of vindaloo, a distinguished dish of southern India, is not just for carnivores. Gari is a vegetarian vindaloo in which sweet summer vegetables are cooked in a rich, tart, tamarind-based sauce. Substitutions for the various vegetables based on seasonal variations are acceptable, as long as the substitutes are sweet and firm and not sour and leafy. Serve with plain rice and raita. (See recipe for Kela Ka Raita.)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large, deep skillet, add the onion and garlic, and lower the heat to medium. Fry at medium-high heat until the onion starts to brown (about 10 minutes). Set aside, off the heat. Drop the potatoes in the boiling water and boil 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, slice the vegetables about 1/2 inch thick. Place the skillet with the onion back on low heat and add paprika, turmeric, fenugreek, ginger, salt, and green chiles. Reheat until sizzling a little and add 2/3 C water. Stir in the vegetables (except the peas) and the potatoes. Simmer 20 minutes, covered.

Remove about 1/2 C of hot liquid from the pot, place in a deep bowl, and add the tamarind concentrate, stirring fiercely to dissolve it and pressing it against the sides of the bowl. Pour the mixture back into the pot, increase the heat to high, bring liquid to boil and reduce it until the sauce is very thick (about 5 minutes).

Stir in the garam masala, cardamom, cloves, cayenne, and coconut, lower heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, cook peas separately in boiling water until just tender (2-3 minutes), checking frequently. Cool them under cold running water and reserve. Just before serving, add the peas to the mixture, cook them just long enough to warm them and serve the dish garnished with cilantro.

Makes 3-4 servings.

Garam Masala 2 TBS cardamom seed 4 TBS ground cinnamon 2 TBS whole cloves 1 TBS cumin seed 1 TBS mace 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg Place spice mixture in a skillet and roast it lightly over a high flame until the spices darken in color. Grind in an electric spice mill and store in an airtight bottle.