Sole Goujons With Paprika Salt

Heat oil in a 4-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until deep-fry thermometer registers 375 degrees.

Stir together 1 tablespoon the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of smoked paprika in a small bowl.

Make batter and fry fish: Pat sole dry, then cut crosswise on a diagonal into 1/2-inch wide strips.

Whisk together 3/4 cup of the flour, 1/4 teaspoon of remaining paprika, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, then whisk in seltzer. Working with 6 pieces at a time, dredge fish first in remaining 1/4 cup instant flour, pat off excess. Then dip in batter to coat, shaking off excess, and fry, turning occasionally, until golden brown and fish is just cooked through (cut a piece open to test), 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, then sprinkle with some of paprika salt. Skim any bits of fried batter from pot and return oil to 375 degrees between batches.

Serve with remaining paprika salt on the side, for dipping.

This recipe yields 4 servings.