Prepare rub. Build charcoal fire or preheat gas grill for indirect cooking. Place soaked wood chips directly on charcoal, or in smoking box of gas grill. Rub ribs with spice rub. Let sit, covered, for 15 minutes.
Place ribs, bone-side down, in center of grill or in rib rack, making sure they are not over direct flame. Grill, covered, over indirect medium heat (about 325 degrees F) for 2 to 2-1/2 hours or until meat is tender and has pulled back from ends of bones (see "preventing burnt edges," below). Brush with some of the BBQ sauces 10 minutes before end of grilling.
Remove ribs from grill and let rest 10 minutes. Cut into portions; pass remaining sauce. Makes 10 servings with 2-1/3 cups barbecue sauce.
Big Lou's BBQ Rub: In a small bowl combine 1/2 cup black pepper, 1/4 cup sweet paprika, 1/2 cup dark brown sugar, 2 Tbsp. salt, 1 Tbsp. white pepper, 1 Tbsp. onion powder, 2 tsp. chili powder or powdered ancho chiles, 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper, and 1 tsp. ground cumin. Use half of the rub on the ribs and store remaining in an airtight container, for up to 3 months.
Sticky-Sweet BBQ Sauce: In saucepan combine chili sauce and jelly. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally until jelly is melted; whisk together.
When mixture is smooth and begins to bubble, add mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, and garlic. Taste and adjust the seasoning if desired. If it is too sweet, add the vinegar; cool. The sauce will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator 1 week.
Smoked Tomato BBQ Sauce: Build charcoal fire or preheat gas grill for indirect cooking. Core tomatoes; coat tomatoes and shallots with olive oil. Season with salt. Place in disposable aluminum pan. Place in center of grill indirectly over medium heat; grill, covered, 30 minutes or until tomato skins are bursting and shallots are soft; remove.
Place tomatoes and shallots in blender with pan juices. Pulse, half at a time, until liquefied. Add brown sugar, vinegar, the 3 Tbsp. of olive oil, paprika and fleur de sel. Blend until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings if desired. Remove from blender. Put through a food mill or fine mesh strainer to remove seeds and skins.
Place strained liquid in large saucepan. Simmer gently 5 minutes. Remove and use immediately or refrigerate in tightly covered container for up to 1 week.
Preventing burnt edges: If the ribs start to burn on the edges before they are tender, stack them on top of one another in center of grill, away from the heat source. About 10 minutes before serving, unstack and brush with barbecue sauce.
Indirect grilling: This method positions the fire to one side or both ends of grill. Food sits over the unlit part, and the grill is covered so the food cooks from all sides. This is best for thicker cuts that need longer cooking like roast and ribs.