Chris Schlesinger's Grilled Whole Red Party Snapper With Two Sauces

Preheat the grill. Take special care with the fire here, since a whole fish is somewhat tricky to cook all the way through without torching its exterior. Wait until your fire is medium-hot but on the way down to low. This way, the first side of the fish to be cooked will get a nice color coating, while the flip side can stay on the grill long enough to finish cooking at a lower temperature.

Make 3 diagonal cuts with a knife on both sides of each fish, down to the bone. This is done to facilitate cooking and also because it is easier to peek into these gaps to determine doneness. Brush each fish with vegetable oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place the fish on the grill and cook them on the first side for 10 to 12 minutes, until well charred. Using a spatula, flip the fish and continue cooking an additional 12 to 15 minutes. Probe in the slashes to check for doneness-the flesh should be uniformly white. Remove fish from grill and serve, accompanied by the two salsas.

Instruct your guests to remove the top fillet of each fish, then yank the spine from the tail up, removing all bones.