Fragrant Curried Chicken with Creamy Yogurt

In a medium bowl toss together chicken, pepper and salt. Set aside.

In a food processor or blender, coarse grind the garlic, ginger, chiles, the chopped onion, cinnamon, coriander, and cumin with enough water to make a loose paste.

In a 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat the oil over medium high. Blend in the sliced onion, lightly sprinkling it with salt. Quickly sauté until it starts to brown. Lower heat to medium and blend in the ground spices. Sauté until the oil is separating from the spices. Keep stirring and scraping up browned bits as they collect on the bottom of the pan. The goal is deeply fragrant spices, but no burned ones. Watch them closely.

Blend in the chicken, coating completely with the spices. Stir in tomatoes and enough water to have ½ inch of liquid (about ⅓ cup) in the pan. Bring to a very gently bubble, cover, and cook 25 to 30 minutes. Chicken should be nearly tender. Uncover and cook very gently until sauce is thick and intensely flavored. Chicken should be very tender and cooked through. Taste for salt and snappy black pepper. Add more if needed.

Before serving, fold in raisins, cooking long enough to warm them. Pile curry in a shallow bowl, topping it with the yogurt.