Old-Fashioned Winter Vegetable Chowder

To prepare cream sauce: Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 cup finely chopped onion and cook, stirring, until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes more. Add 5 cups broth and wine and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until the rice is very soft and the liquid is greatly reduced, about 25 minutes. Cool slightly.

Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree, in batches if necessary, until smooth. (Alternatively, puree in the pot with an immersion blender.) The consistency should be similar to a pourable sauce; add more broth or water as needed. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper, preferably white pepper.

To prepare soup: Heat a heavy soup pot over medium heat and add bacon (or pancetta); cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate; pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat in the pot.

Add 1 tablespoon oil, 2 medium chopped onions, carrot, celery, garlic and fennel seed. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and just beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add dry mustard and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add 4 cups broth, potatoes and rutabaga and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape, 15 to 20 minutes. Mash a few of the vegetables against the side of the pot with the back of a spoon and cook for 2 minutes more to slightly thicken the soup.

Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the Cream Sauce and heat until steaming but not boiling. Remove from heat; add cheese and stir until melted. Season with pepper. Serve topped with chives (or scallion greens) and the reserved bacon (or pancetta).