Tom's Perfect Mashed Potatoes

Cook the potatoes: Heat oven to 250 degrees F. Place the potatoes in a pot and fill with enough water to cover. Add the salt and bring to a boil over high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until potatoes are tender -- 12 to 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to a baking pan, and place in the oven until thoroughly dried out -- 7 to 8 minutes. (Shake the pan occasionally to ensure all excess water evaporates.)

Puree the potatoes: Heat the milk in a small saucepan until it simmers. Mash the potatoes until smooth, taking care not to overwork them. Alternately add the butter and milk in thirds -- gently folding with a rubber spatula. Stir in the pepper.