Cook the Book: Smoked Trout Chowder

2 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, cut lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)

2 stalks celery, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 medium carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1 1/2 cups)

2 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks

2 cups water

1/2 pound hot- or cold-smoked trout, broken into chunks

3 cups whole milk

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Chowder crackers