Hot-smoked red emperor and pink pomelo miang

Serves 4 Prep time 20 mins, cook 40 mins For miang paste, preheat oven to 160C. Roast peanuts, fish and galangal separated on an oven tray until golden (5-10 minutes), cool. Reduce oven to 140C. Scatter coconut on a separate oven tray and roast, stirring, until golden (about 10 minutes), cool. Combine garlic, chillies and ½ tsp salt in a mortar and, using a pestle, pound to a smooth paste. Add roasted ingredients (except coconut) and pound to a fine paste. Meanwhile, combine palm sugar and 100ml water in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, covered, until sugar dissolves (about 5 minutes). Add paste, roast coconut and fish sauce, and boil gently until thick and fragrant (10-15 minutes). Remove from heat, add tamarind water and check for seasoning (it should be a balance of sweet, salty and sour; add more sugar, fish sauce or tamarind water if necessary). Makes 1 cup. Will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

In a bowl combine red emperor and 1/3 cup miang paste, add papaya and chillies, gently toss to combine, then add pomelo, coriander and kaffir lime. Drizzle with half the lime juice and taste for seasoning, it should be a balance of hot, sweet, salty and sour. Add extra chilli and lime juice if desired.

Divide miang among betel leaves. Scatter with fried shallots and garlic, salmon roe, basil flowers and cress and serve immediately.