Perfect potato gnocchi

Place potatoes in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil, then cook for 15 minutes until tender. Drain, return to pan over low heat and toss for 1 minute to remove moisture.

Cool slightly, then peel and pass through a potato ricer (from kitchenware shops) into a large bowl. Add nutmeg, eggs and 1 tbs salt, then sift in flour. Using hands, gently mix to a soft dough, adding a little extra flour if too sticky - don't overwork or gnocchi will be tough. Turn onto a floured bench and dust hands with flour. Take a cupful of dough, form into a log, then use a rolling pin to gently roll into a 2cm-thick rectangle. Use a sharp knife to cut into 2cm-wide strips, then cut strips into 2cm lengths. Place gnocchi on a flour-dusted tray in a single layer, then repeat with remaining dough. At this stage, you can set gnocchi aside, covered with a tea towel, for 2-3 hours until ready to cook.

Cook gnocchi, in 2 batches, in a large pan of boiling salted water. As soon as they rise to the surface (30-60 seconds), remove to a tray with a slotted spoon. Toss briefly in a deep frypan with sugo. Serve immediately with parmesan and oregano.