Veal shin with sage and garlic

Serves 6 Prep time 25 mins, cook 3 hrs This is a tomato-free twist on osso buco Milanese, with a herb instead of a traditional saffron risotto.

Preheat oven to 150C. Heat olive oil in a large casserole over high heat, add veal and cook, turning occasionally, until browned (4-6 minutes), remove from casserole and set aside.

Reduce heat to low-medium, add onion, garlic, sage and bay leaves and saut until onion is tender and beginning to caramelise (7-8 minutes). Deglaze pan with wine, then return veal to casserole, add 1 litre water and bring to the simmer. Add lemon rind, season to taste, cover with a lid and cook in the oven until meat falls from the bone (2½-2¾ hours).

Meanwhile, for herb risotto, 45 minutes before veal is ready, heat extra-virgin olive oil in a large saucepan, add onion and celery and saut over low-medium heat until very tender (10-12 minutes). Add rice, increase heat to medium and stir until grains are toasted (3-4 minutes). Add wine, reduce by half (1-2 minutes), add stock one ladleful at a time, stirring continuously, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next, and cook until rice is al dente (20-30 minutes), stir through herbs and lemon rind and season to taste. Serve hot with veal shin.