Shrimp-Stuffed Triple-Baked Potatoes

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Prick the potatoes a few times with a fork and bake on a rack in the oven for about 40 minutes, or until tender.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, blend the crème fraîche with the garlic; season with salt and white pepper and let stand for at least 15 minutes.

Increase the oven temperature to 450°F. When the roasted potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a medium bowl, leaving a thin wall around the skins. Reserve 8 of the potato skin halves; set aside the rest for another use or discard. Mash the flesh well with a potato masher, then gently mash in 2 1/2 tablespoons of the butter and the warm cream and season with salt and white pepper.

Rub the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter all over the outsides of the 8 reserved potato skins and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the potato skins, cut sides up, on a baking sheet. Bake in the upper third of the oven for about 3 minutes, or until the skins are lightly crisp. Spoon the filling into the potato skins and continue baking for about 10 minutes, or until heated through and glazed on top.

In a medium saucepan, heat the crème fraîche. Add the shrimp and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until pink and starting to curl, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a plate. Increase the heat to moderately high and simmer the crème fraîche until slightly reduced, about 2 minutes. Return the shrimp to the sauce.

Set 2 baked potato halves on each plate. Spoon the shrimp and crème fraîche sauce over the stuffed potatoes and serve immediately.

Wine Recommendation: Napa Valley's early, small harvest in 2004 led to intense, concentrated Chardonnays, flamboyant enough to stand up to the crème fraîche topping of these potatoes. The 2004 Beringer and the 2004 Lewis Cellars are both superb choices; the first is toasty and full-bodied, the latter leesy and powerful.