Dungeness Crab and Mussel Chowder

Parboil the potatoes: Slice the potatoes into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, place in a medium nonreactive saucepan (at least 4-quart capacity) with about 2 inches of cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until the potatoes just begin to soften -- about 5 minutes. Drain potatoes and set aside.

Make the chowder: Heat the olive oil in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon, garlic, lemon zest, shallots, thyme, and chili paste and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots and garlic are softened and the bacon is lightly browned -- about 6 minutes. Gradually add the flour, stirring well. Add the mussels and wine, cover, and bring to a low boil over medium heat. Remove the mussels as they open, using a slotted spoon, and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the potatoes and leeks to the broth and continue to cook until the potatoes and leeks are tender -- 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the heavy cream. Season the chowder with the salt and pepper and gently fold the crabmeat and mussels into the chowder. Serve immediately in warmed soup bowls.