Cima alla Genovese

Ada Boni notes that this is easy to do; the ingredient list is exhaustive and calls for some thing that are now hard to find but wouldn't have been allowed to go to waste in the past. If you would prefer, you can leave them out, increasing other ingredients proportionately.

The piece of meat should be thick, and Italian butchers will cut a pocket into it if requested. The cut should go parallel to the grain and reach almost through the meat to produce a sizable pocket. Be careful not to puncture it.

Melt the butter and brown all the other pieces of meats (except the breast of veal), then drain them well and put them on a cutting board. Finely chop the veal, udder, and sweetbread. Crumble the testicle, marrow and brain. Put the meats in a bowl, together with the peas, steeped mushrooms, pine nuts, minced garlic and marjoram, beaten eggs, grated Parmigiano, and moistened bread crumb (a half cup to a cup or so). Gently mix everything together to avoid crushing the various ingredients, check seasoning, and use the mixture to fill the pocket. Sew the pocket shut with cotton thread.

Put the tasca in a pot, add warm broth to cover, and simmer it gently for an hour of so, puncturing the pocket every now and then lest the filling swell and burst the pocket. At this point cover the tasca and simmer it for two hours more. Serve thinly sliced hot or cold.

The day after, Liguri take the leftover slices, dredge them in beaten egg, then bread crumbs, and fry them in butter or oil.

The wine? I'd go with a Barbera or a Dolcetto here.