Melitzanosalata (Grilled Eggplant Salad with Tomato, Vinegar, and Parsley)

Preheat and oil a grill. Place a wire rack on a baking pan. Set aside.

Pierce each eggplant in a few places with a dinner fork. Place the eggplants on the preheated grill and grill, turning occasionally to prevent burning, for about 15 minutes or until the eggplants are soft and the skin is black. Using a spatula, lift the eggplants from the grill and place on the wire rack in the baking pan to cool.

When the eggplants are cool, peel and discard the skin as well as any juices that have dripped into the baking pan.

Coarsely chop the eggplant flesh and place it in the bowl of a tabletop mixer fitted with the paddle. Add the garlic, onion, and tomato and mix on medium speed for 1 minute. Add the yogurt and mix for another minute.

With the mixer still on medium speed, slowly add the vinegar and lemon juice. When blended, with the mixer still running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Begin adding the seltzer, a tablespoon at a time, beating until the mixture is slightly thick yet light and relatively loose. Stir in the parsley and oregano and season with salt and pepper.

Transfer to a nonreactive storage container, cover, and