Grilled quail salad with Madeira

To spatchcock the birds, use poultry shears or a knife to cut up one side of the backbone, then cut out the backbone altogether. Open out each bird, skin side up, on the chopping board and press down firmly with the palm of your hand to flatten. Carefully remove the skin from each bird.

Place all the marinade ingredients in a glass dish or bowl large enough to hold the quail in a single layer. Add the quail and turn them over so they are well coated. Leave them breast side down. Cover and marinate at cool room temperature for 4 hours, or up to 12 hours in the refrigerator.

To make the dressing, place all the ingredients in a small screw-top jar and shake until well blended. Set aside.

Preheat the grill to high. Lift the quail out of the marinade. Weave 2 parallel skewers through each bird to hold it flat. (If you are using long skewers, thread 2 birds on each pair of skewers.)

Place the birds on the grill rack, 15 cm (6 in) from the heat, and grill for 10–12 minutes, basting frequently with the remaining marinade and turning once. To test if the quail are cooked, cut a small slit in the meaty part of the thigh – if the juices run clear, the quail are done.

Meanwhile, combine the fennel, mushrooms, bean sprouts and thyme in a mixing bowl. Shake the dressing, then pour over the vegetables and toss until well coated. Divide the mixed salad leaves among 4 plates and top with the dressed vegetables.

Remove the skewers from the quail. Place 2 quail on each bed of vegetables, garnish with spring onions and thyme sprigs, and serve.