Level of difficulty: confident cook Freezing time: 2 hours To prepare crabs, place them in the freezer for 2 hours to put them into a stupor. Place each one on its back with the eyes facing you, then drive a thick skewer or the point of a sharp knife between the eyes and into the centre of the crab. Break off tail flaps on the underside and discard. Carefully pull off back shells and reserve. Cut each crab in half lengthwise, then remove the ‘dead man’s fingers’ (soft gills) and discard. Rinse and discard the stomach sac. Cut each crab half into 3. Leave the large claws attached, but crack them with the heel of a knife.
Place cumin seeds and peppercorns in a large frying pan over high heat. Cook for 2 minutes or until toasted. Transfer to a mortar, wipe pan clean with paper towel and return pan to high heat. Add grated coconut and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until golden, then add to cumin seed mixture with 1 tbs water. Grind to a smooth paste with a pestle and set aside. Alternatively, process in a small food processor to a paste.
Heat ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan over high heat, add mustard seeds and cook for 30 seconds or until seeds pop. Add fennel seeds and cook for a further minute or until fennel seeds start to brown. Add onion, curry leaves and chillies, and cook for 4 minutes or until onion is browned. Add curry powder, ground chilli and turmeric, and stir to combine. Add crab and reserved crab shells, and cook, stirring constantly so the spices don’t burn, for 3 minutes or until crab starts to change colour.
Combine spiced coconut paste, coconut milk, tamarind purée and 500ml (2 cups) water in a bowl. Add to crab mixture and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer, tossing crab halfway, for 12 minutes or until crab is just cooked. Increase heat to medium, remove lid and simmer for 4 minutes or until liquid is slightly thickened. Season with salt and stir in murunga leaves and lime juice.
Divide crab among bowls and spoon over some curry sauce. Serve with rice, if desired, and remaining curry sauce.
Note If you can’t find fresh coconut, use frozen shredded coconut, available from Asian food shops, or substitute moistened dried coconut flakes. Check out the coconut grater that Peter uses at Flying Fish in Bite-Size Pieces.
Black mustard seeds are available from selected supermarkets and delis.
Jaffna curry powder and tamarind purée/paste are available from Asian food shops.
Murunga leaves, commonly known as drumstick leaves, are available from Asian grocers. Substitute 2 tbs chopped parsley and an extra squeeze of lime.
Drink 2009 Mantlerhof Gelber ‘Muskateller’.
