Coda alla vaccinara (slaughtermen's braised oxtail)

Serves 6 Prep time 20 mins, cook 3 hrs 15 mins Coda alla vaccinara remains one of the more traditional meat dishes of Rome today – alongside abbacchio al forno (roast suckling lamb).

Combine oxtail in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover, bring to the simmer over medium heat and cook to remove some of the fat (45 minutes). Drain and set aside.

Preheat oven to 180C. Heat oil in a wide saucepan over high heat, add back-fat and stir occasionally to render (2-4 minutes), remove fat pieces with a slotted spoon (discard), then add onion, celery, carrot and garlic and stir occasionally until golden (10-12 minutes). Deglaze pan with white wine and cook until reduced by half (2-4 minutes). Add oxtail, stock, passata, celeriac, herbs, vinegar and sugar, season to taste, bring to the simmer over low heat, cover closely with a round of baking paper and roast until meat is falling from the bone (1½-2 hours). Remove oxtail and vegetables with a slotted spoon and keep warm, then simmer sauce over medium heat until slightly reduced and flavourful (15-30 minutes).

Meanwhile, for gremolata, combine ingredients and set aside.

Return oxtail and vegetables to the pan and serve warm with gremolata, crusty bread and a leaf salad.